January 13 - 16, 2015 - by Theo Blix
Pitti is the birthplace of menswear, it all starts here. At Pitti Uomo this year was all about the " Active Gentleman Look".
The star item for the F/W 15 season: the Gilet is essential for the all-important layered look, and noted in padded nylon and vintage-inspired styles. Clever designs combine tweed tailored waistcoats with knitted shawl collars for a layered knitwear look without the bulk. Light quilting is also key, especially when paired with tailoring. Another key item was the rolled neck sweater in neutral colors.
Im a big fan of the Brunello Cucinelli look in the above pictures: The active gent look is accomplished by bringing together season key items, the gap between formal tailoring and active apparel draws ever - smaller. Hybrid construction techniques combine distinguishing features in both looks, where key items include contrast sleeve suit jackets and the tailored jogger. This is what Pitti Uomo is known for, traditional tailoring mixes with sport and streetwear influences. Formalwear is taken in a relaxed direction through styling or the reworking of classic items, while typically outdoor pieces get a luxury makeover.
Woolrich - The Active Gent
I particularly loved this Parka from Wooster + Larding, with high-end fabrics, stripped-back silhouettes and featured linings. I appreciate the sharper take on this core outerwear item, making it look smart, while retaining its practical feel. You'll also see a big trend this fall with a shift towards more relaxed silhouettes when it comes to pants , bottom weights and draw string pant shapes are predominantly tapered, ranging from slim-leg to looser silhouettes, with a focus on cropped lengths. This particular look hints smart-casual styling.
Wooster + Larding
Florence street style, alot of cashmere and tweed to keep warm while looking polished.
Florence Street Style
Comfort, functionality and a nonchalant approach to styling are key, while high-end fabrics and sartorial details maintain a premium feel. Artisanal and handcrafted influences focus on fine textiles and craftsmanship this is what Pitti Uomo is all about. Not to expect any less from this tiny town of Florence... the birthplace of Gucci. It was the heart of the renaissance, and is a city were slow craft and tradition are still valued. Its art and architecture are unrivalled. From the Uffizi and Michelangelo's David to the Costume Gallery at Palazzo Pitti, Florence is rich with inspiration.